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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their small restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.